🔍 Overview of ESPR
The ESPR is part of the EU Green Deal and the Circular Economy Action Plan. It was proposed in March 2022 and is currently progressing through the legislative process.
It aims to establish a common EU framework for setting sustainability requirements for almost all physical goods placed on the EU market, covering their entire life cycle — from design and production to end-of-life.
✅ Core Objectives:
The ESPR promotes:
- Sustainable product design – products must be durable, reusable, repairable, and energy/resource efficient.
- Increased use of recycled content – reducing dependency on virgin raw materials.
- Reduced carbon and environmental footprint – aligning with decarbonisation goals.
- Transparency and traceability – including a Digital Product Passport (DPP) to track environmental performance and origin.
- Combatting premature obsolescence – promoting longevity and upgradeability.
👜 Implications for the Leather Industry:
The regulation is not sector-specific, but it will eventually apply to categories like textiles, furniture, and footwear — all of which commonly use leather. While leather does not currently face specific measures under ESPR, future delegated acts (secondary legislation) may cover:
- Traceability of hides (potential relevance of LASRA’s hyperspectral traceability project).
- Carbon footprint reporting for leather products.
- Requirements for recycled or bio-based content in leather goods or substitutes.
Why leather aligns well:
- By-product nature: Leather is derived from hides that would otherwise go to waste.
- Durability: Leather products tend to last much longer than plastic or synthetic alternatives, aiding in product longevity targets.
- Recyclability and biodegradability: Especially for vegetable-tanned leathers, which break down more easily than synthetics.
- Improved production standards: Certifications like LWG, ISO 14001, and REACH compliance demonstrate environmental responsibility.
⚠️ Potential Challenges:
- Perceptions around animal origin may still complicate acceptance in some markets or under eco-labelling schemes.
- Chemical use in tanning (especially chromium-based processes) may come under greater scrutiny if safe disposal or recycling isn’t demonstrated.
- The Digital Product Passport could require data standardisation and infrastructure that many tanneries, especially SMEs, aren’t ready for.
Summary:
The ESPR is a sweeping regulation that aims to transform product sustainability in the EU. For the leather industry, it presents both an opportunity and a challenge. Leather already meets many of the Regulation’s goals, particularly in resource use and product durability, but the industry must continue to address traceability, chemical management, and byproduct utilisation to stay ahead of compliance and perception issues.
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